Food facts

A rainy day in Sorrento and soon we leave to catch the ferry in Naples for an overnight passage to Sicily. Luckily we have a cabin so we may be able to hide from the cold, rainy weather which will probably make for a wild ride. The gelati has been delicious everywhere. Breakfast at the hotel has been a huge buffet of sweets, a buffet of fruits and cereals, and a sidebar of eggs. But the best thing (that we discovered on day 2) is the stainless steel orange juicer that we found on the side of the buffet. They bring in oranges from the garden and you can have really fresh juice that you squeeze yourself. The down side is that the juicer sounds like a Boeing 747 taking off. (So we don't like it when other people discover the secret.) We went to dinner at a local restaurant and I had the strozzopreti (priest choker )noodles with shrimp scampi. Apparently in this area the priest were not always looked upon kindly and this speically shaped noodle was created. You can wikipedia the noodles for a description. The breads are out of this world - soft inside, crusty outside. Limoncello is a locally made product because there are lemon and orange trees everywhere! Tasty. The streets are lined with orange trees that are loaded with fruit. I'll post food pictures when I get back to using my own computer. Now, onto the wet, curvy road that runs along the water.

Como dice (how do you say?) STOP Feeding us!

We spent so much time waiting for the bus to bring us back to Sorrento from Positano (almost 3 hours waiting) that we built this small hut AND then had time to buy this horse! Today we took the city bus to Positano. Apparently schedules don't mean much here. The bus left an hour late. It dropped us off at the top of town and we hiked the 1.5 mi to the beach. It was the 1st beach where we ever found sea glass. But after a few hours walking we decided to hike back up the steep 1.5 mi road to the bus stop. There we waited for more than two hours and there were no buses to be seen running either direction. So, we hiked back down to the beach and looked for the Tourist Info office - but of course that wasn't open in off season. So we hiked back up the steep hill and waited another hour and a half. Finally, a bus came! We cheered, we danced the tarantella, we sold the hut and gave away the horse.

Sorrento

We left Virginia and the tall mounds of dirty snow behind. We landed in Rome around 8 a.m. and were one of the few people to get a rental car. Saturday must be laundry day in italy because most of the balconies in the apartment buildings had laundry drying on them. Here in Sorrento it's chilly - in the 50's but there are ripe orange and lemon trees everywhere. The hotel garden has camellias and rosemary bushes in bloom. Cyclamen and birds of paradise are all around. A rooster crowing woke us up this morning (in town). We took the train to Pompei and saw orange and lemon "groves" right up to the railroad tracks. Everyone with some land seems to have fruit trees and gardens. Now i understand my Italian grandfather's need to garden a little better. But enough of the beauty, we drove from Rome and were surprised to see vendors at toll booths trying to sell stuffed animals or trinkets to you while you wait in line to pay the toll. Also, the scooter riders are INSANE! We were in a long line of traffic going up twisty two lane roads. The motorcylists and scooter riders were weaving in and out of traffic and riding down the middle of road at full speed - showing no fear. The other bizarre thing was having little children (maybe 3 or 4 years old) going from train car to train car begging for money. Pompeii was amazing - so much bigger and more technologically advanced than we had imagined. We spent about 5 hours there. No one seems to want to hear my Italian. It is pitiful that we must only be in tourist traps because everyone is speaking English to us.

At sea

It’s the last day of the cruise. K band I are sitting outside on the Promenade Deck enjoying the calm sapphire seas, 73 degree temp. and warm breeze. It’s all the sweeter because we know we are heading back to gray skies and Arctic temperatures tomorrow. Yesterday was what I think of as an archetypical island day. We landed on the tiny island of Grand Turk to crystal clear blue waters and sunny skies. Bob spent some time on the beach but left K and me so we could go into the water. It was sandy and then we walked onto flat coral and could see fish swimming around our feet. After the beach K and I had a couple hours so we parked ourselves at the bar/pool/restaurant at Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville. I imagine it to be a tame version of spring break and thought she should experience it. It was packed with people from our ship and the Carnival ship that also had docked. There were a lot of college kids and twenty-somethings on both ships – quite different from our previous cruises of old people. So the DJ devised contests to pit the two ships against each other. Carnival won all. There was the beer drinking contest and then the “strongman” contest. Six buff bucks took turns having the same bikini-clad girl (a Carnival hussy) lie on their backs while they did push-ups. The winner was able to do 31 push-ups but then the Adonis DJ was persuaded to take off his shirt and compete and he did 33 pushups with the girl on his back. Ah youth! The weather was perfect last night so we watched Jim Carrey in “Yes Man” . This ship has a huge drive-in type screen on the upper deck. There are hot tubs and a pool and a bar. We had lounge chairs, the porters brought out blankets to protect us from the evening chill, delivered warm cookies, drinks and popcorn to us. The sea was calm and it was a perfect evening.

Sunny and hot, hot, hot

Warm and sunny day at last! Everyone onboard rejoiced and formed a long conga line to get off the (line, yes. Conga, no) We were just one of six ships docking in town today. The huge Oasis of the Seas was also here – so maybe it should count as two ships instead of just one. It holds 6,000 cruisers plus the staff. Walking down the pier was like being in Manhattan but instead of skyscrapers blocking out the sun, there were huge ships towering over us. We had the choice of going to the French clothing-optional beach or going to the Dutch side and shopping. In a unanimous decision, we went shopping. Actually, it was more of scavenger hunting for the freebie gifts that the stores giveout to lure gullible shoppers into their lairs. We left Kelly alone in her wheelchair on the street for 30 seconds and when we returned, a woman was wrapping jewelry around her arm, in hopes of making a quick sale. Apparently other families did decide to go to the clothing optional beach because we overhead the “Jersey Shore” family at the next dinner table talking about how unattractive everyone was on the beach. Everyone on the ship had all been warned that drugs are very common and people might approach us. Apparently we are just too old because no one approached us with that commodity. Tomorrow we have vowed we will not go in any stores. We go to St. John’s to visit the national park

Rainy Day at Sea

Rainy day at sea but there was something for everyone. Bob visited the casino because it was open all day and went to the wine tasting. Kelly played bingo twice and Paula enjoyed the demos of flower arranging, vegetable art , and towel folding. Dinner was formal so Bob put on his Santa tie and suit (NOT Santa suit) and we all got uncharacteristically dressed up. Meanwhile the ship gently rock and rolled enough that Paula took Dramamine and put on sea bands that are as tight as wrist tourniquets – but they did the job.

Welcome to the sunny Caribbean - NOT!

It may not be 20 degrees but today it is probably as grey and overcast here as it is in Western Pennsylvania. When the rain subsided, we swaddled ourselves in layers of beach towels and watched Mama Mia on the giant outdoor movie screen on the top deck of the ship. Kelly and I relaxed from our post-luncheon snack, in preparation for our pre-dinner ice cream, in anticipation of our special dinner at the Chop House. By adhering to a rigorous cruise eating schedule we are confident we will be total blimps when we roll back into Annandale. We tried to go to Princess Cay this morning. Getting K’s wheelchair onto the tender was an experience. Just like on the show “Glee” everyone should have to try using a wheelchair to see just how challenging it is to get around even places that call themselves “accessible.” Yesterday the spa folks sold Kelly and me a pass to use the “thermal spa” facilities but after at least an hour trying to find a wheelchair accessible way to get there – we gave up. Apparently no elevators that give access to that part of the spa are working – and only a few crew members knew that. Anyway, back to this morning - we rock and rolled our way in the tiny tender to the island. By the time we arrived on land, it had started pouring rain so we made the crew’s day and turned right around to return to the ship. Luckily, our stateroom is on Level 5 which has the piazza which is a stage for entertainment, the wine bar, the international café, and the internet cafe just steps from our room – something for everyone in our little trio. Tomorrow we are at sea so it will probably be a big day for eating – again. Right now K and B are enjoying the casino. At 4:00 Kelly announced she wanted to go to the casino but Bob sternly told her if she had any class she wouldn’t step into the casino till after 8 p.m. So off they went to the casino after dinner. He is such a good influence.

Farmer's Market

Naples, Florida

A breezy day here - only a few people were on the beach. We made a quick stop at the beach and then headed to the farmer's market in town. The booths were full of citrus fruits, a guacamole stand, a couple soap and herb stands, a few orchid sellers and some sellers of items made with sea shells. It's interesting how farmer's markets are always a great reflection of the local area. Then it was off to lunch with a friend who has a winter home here. We took the tram from her condo, through the mangroves on a boardwalk and saw two resident alligators(!) lolling in the water. We had a lovely lunch (indoors) on the beach. In the afternoon we went to the Naples Museum of Art to see an exhibit on calligraphy. It had two books from the St. John's Bible Project - calligraphers and artists created new illuminated manuscripts of the bible. The musueum also had quite a few installations by Chilhuly - that man is everywhere. There is also a permanent exhibit of miniature rooms. The detail and workmanship are startling. Take a look at the site http://www.thephil.org/museum/museum_collections/sculpture_3D.html#Miniatures. Then in the afternoon B&K went to the movies and I hit the JoAnn Superstore and teatime at Panera's before I picked them up. Must remember to skip the chain restaurants because they are so boring compared to local businesses.

Goodbye 2009 - hello 2010

A cloudy day in Naples made all the people disappear. The street along the beach that was so crowded yesterday was deserted today. Actually, we found the people at the movies. We went to Silverspot theater - a "luxury" cinema with big leather seats, a big screen, and only room for 75 people in each theater. Tres deluxe. The automatic faucets in the ladies' room look like Japanese bamboo pipes. (My personal theory is that you can judge a place by the ladies room.) The theater has a dining room and a lounge, no ticket sellers, it's all computerized - which seemed to baffle most of the people there. Avatar was sold out. We got the last three seats for Sherlock Holmes. As a fan of the Jeremy Brett Sherlock Holmes on public television, I found the film too action packed and not cerebral enough. Not a REAL Sherlock Holmes. Lots of $$$$$$ in this town and lots of really interesting architecture and great greenery.

Sarasota unexplored

Yesterday we explored the environs of lovely Kissimmee [bottom photo] and 2 urgent care facilities. On our final night at disney, Kelly fell down 4 steps at the Magic Kingdom and we spent yesterday finding medical help. She "just" sprained her ankle and hurt her wrist but she left with crutches, ankle and wrist splints and an order for a wheelchair for the cruise. Needless to say, we didn't do much sightseeing in Sarasota. Ringling Museum and Clown College will need to wait for another trip.
Today (New Year's Eve) has been a beautiful day in Naples. We are in a great hotel [top photo is the view from our room]. So far the only drawback is the guy smoking a vile cigar out on the patio beside ours. Happy New Year to all. May 2010 be great for all of us!

Acting Goofy

This is what happens when the park opens at 7 A.M. and you are in line with the other crazy people by 6:30 A.M.! We even had one fanatic in front of us who whispered to his son the logistical change in plans as if he were launching a major military offensive.

Disney World

Southward Bound

No matter how many times we drive to Florida, there is always a special anticipation of the trip. Even before the trip, we've destroyed the car - packing it full of junk food, fruit, drinks, suitcases, pillows, CDs. The drive is full of reliable markers that we can always use to gauge our progress. Who needs a GPS? We know where we are when we pass the Little Pee Dee River, Francis Marion "the Swamp Fox", the wonderful "Pedro sez" signs (even though they seemed fewer in number this year), the Sabatier outlet, Cafe Risque, all the McDonald's and Cracker Barrels we've visited over the years and, of course, South of the Border. As soon as we see the South of the Border compound, we know we've made incredible progress on our journey. This year we left at 1:45 A.M. in a thick fog that lasted until North Carolina. We were in a steady convoy of cars from New York, New Jersey and Canada, passing and being passed by the same cars and trucks over and over. The after-Christmas migration south had begun.

Witch City - Salem, Boston

Another beautiful Massacusetts day. We had drinks with Uncle Richard last night before he went off to the rehearsal dinner for Keith and Meghan's wedding. We took the ferry from Salem to Boston and Paula got only slightly seasick on both legs of the trip. Lunch was at Fanueil Marketplace at Durgin Park. We had eaten there more than 30 years ago. the clam chowder was still excellent. Today we are spending the day in Salem town. Slightly off the beaten tourist traps of witch t-shirts and mugs, we have found a huge consignment/thrift shop, a bead store, a needlecraft store, and some other crafty-stores. Kelly and I know where we will be spending our day. Bob is not invited.

Vermont's Green Mountains

Thursday was a driving day. Luckily the weather was PERFECT! We stopped at Vermont Teddy Bear and took a clever factory tour. Then it was off to Burlington, VT to walk around town. The pedestrian mall was deserted at 10:30 AM when we arrived. Restaurants were putting out tables and chairs and I thought they would be empty for lunch since no one was around. By 11:30 AM every table was taken and the streets were packed. It was such a lovely day that everyone must have decided to head outside. Then it was off to Ben and Jerry's Factory for a tasty tour.

So last night we had drinks on the porch of the Red Lion Inn. Very civilized. No ghosts were spotted. Then we wandered around Stockbridge and had dinner at the site of the famous (to those of us who remember the 60's) Alice's Restaurant (You can get anything you want at Alice's Restaurant) - but now it is Teresa's Formerly Known as Alice's Restaurant. This area was cetainly monumental to the music of the 60's (James Taylor, Arlo, Woodstock kind of nearby). This chilly morning we headed over to the house and studio of Daniel Chester French, the sculptor of the statue of Lincoln at the Lincoln Monument. He had railroad tracks put inside and outside of his studio so that he could work on the sculptures inside or outside and check in the effect of lighting on the sculpture. Then this afternoon we went to Edith Wharton's home. She designed the house, the gardens, was the first woman to win the Pulitzer Prize and volunteered on the front of World War I. She wrote 40 books in 40 years. She wrote short stories, fiction, books on travel, gardens, architecture and interior design. The most fascinating fact is that she wrote reclining in her bed from 6 AM to 11 AM everyday. She did this because it was the only time of day she was not trussed up in a tight corset (as was the fashion of the day) and she could write in comfort. She is my new idol (sans corset). As we left The Mount (the name of her estate) we talked to the gardeners who were busy cutting down hundreds of large ferns that surround the path and quarter mile road to the house. They said that with fall coming it was time to clear out the gardens. We even saw a maple tree with a few branches of brilliant red leaves.

Georgia O'Keefe and Crane Paper

Georgia O'Keefe (bottom pic) was influenced by the works of Arthur Dove (top pic) . Who knew? Dove was a painter before O'Keefe was. Dove and O'Keefe knew each other and kept in touch through Steiglitz. They influenced each others styles throughout their lives. Great exhibit. Then we stopped at Bob's Country Restaurant in Lanesboro for lunch. Apparently Bob is Polish because they had kolbasi and stuffed cabbage rolls (golomki)on the menu - and it was good. In the afternoon we went to the Crane Papermaking Museum and had a great tour. Crane makes all their paper from cotton - no trees are killed. Crane also makes the paper for the US Mint. So we saw how to tell if a bill is real or not. Also, we saw how 6 ladies handpaint the color borders that are on Crane notecards and paper. I now have an appreciation for why Crane paper is so expensive. It is very labor intensive. The day beautiful - not a cloud in the sky and it's NOT HOT, NOT HUMID. It's wonderful.

Norman Rockwell and Berkshire Botanical Gardens

Yesterday Blogger refused to acknowledge that I had an account - so I couldn't post this picture of Val Kill, Eleanor Roosevelt's retreat and then retirement home in Hyde Park. This is the out-of-the-way place where Franklin could go swim without the press watching. We toured the Norman Rockwell museum. I had always thought of him as a rather stodgy old illustrator. However, as he aged, he used his artistic talents to make many social statements against racism and for peace in the world. I think his painting "The Golden Rule" is my favorite. Then we went on to the Berkshire Botanical Garden. It had wonderful installations of kinetic sculptures by Tim Prentice in the garden. As luck would have it, there was a good breeze the whole time we were there - so we saw and heard the sculptures in full motion. Check out the artists website to see his works. http://timprentice.com/index_framev2.html Food notes: we ate at Joe's Diner in Lee, Mass.

On sunday, as we drove past Joe's we saw people lined up outside waiting to get in. Yesterday we found out why. The diner has 4 tables and 8 stools at the counter. In fact, it may have been the setting for Norman Rockwell's painting - The runaway - where the policeman sits at the counter beside a litttle boy who has run away from home. Cheeseburgers were $2.95 and my delicious grilled ham and cheese sandwich was $3.95. The onion rings were outstanding. We took extra lipitors that night.Then we had dinner at Berkshire Harvest a restaurant that serves only local produce, meats and cheeses. Turkey dinners with mashed potatoes, stuffing, and cranberry sauce seem to very popular here now. Of couse, you can see the leaves starting to change and there is a chill in the morning air - so it does seem like time to start thinking about fall foods.

In the Berkshires

Saturday morning we left Havre de Grace under the cover of darkness (5:00 a.m.) and headed north to Hyde Park, NY. Our first real stop was at the Vanderbilt Mansion where we saw the excesses of the Gilded Age. Louisa Vanderbilt had her bedroom built as a replica of the Queen's bedroom at Versaille - complete with marble railing around her bed. Husband Frederick had his bedroom fit for a king. It was all a bit much. We then went to FDR's home Springwood and saw how other rich people lived when they were busy doing public service and weren't interested in impressing everyone. Our tour guides at FDR's called it a study in comparing old money (Roosevelts) to new money (Vanderbilts.) then we headed to our own little house - Le Petite Chateau - a lovely little Bed and Breakfast. Such a pretty place - champagen in the room with a view of the pond and lots of little vases with fresh flowers in our room (which is pictured above.) Here are the top reasons we can never stay in another B&B: 1. The floors of old houses creak and we walk like baby elephants. 2. The walls of old houses are thin - and we talk loudly, like trumpeter swans. 3. The stairs are steep and we plod up and down like dinosaurs. 4. Breakfast is served in a dining room - with other people in close proximity - we lack table manners and usually leave the embroidered linen table cloth - a mess. and reason #5 we are not staying in any more B&B's : the plumbing is old and we always clog it up. Anyway, dinner at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) was delicious. We ate in the American Bounty restaurant. The students spend 3 weeks either cooking in the kitchen or serving the food. I had lobster burgoo - kind of a stew. Appetizer was tempura battered squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta cheese. It was very tasty. Kelly had a double pork chop with at least a pound of mashed potatoes. Fabulous! Bob had lamb carpaccio which we learned was sent back to the kitchen 3 times by the chef's supervisor - because it wasn't quite right. He liked it but it looked awfully raw to my Western Pennsylvania sensibilities. My fresh warm peach cobbler was to die for , Bob's molten lava cake was delish and Kelly's ice cream filled profiteroles (with a litttle pitcher of warm chocolate sauce) were tasty. After that huge meal we really made a lot noise lumbering back into the B&B that night. Sunday morning we had a delicious breakfast made by a student chef from the CIA. We headed to Val Kill, Eleanor Roosevelt's retreat and the place she moved to after FDR died. It was so homey. We met up with the best NPS guide, Victor Pennes. He picked up on the fact that Kelly knows all about presidents' families and he was sure to point out lots of family photos to her. He even opened up a closed building - the Stone Cottage - so that we could see the small house that FDR designed as a place for Eleanor and her friends to use. For a while it served as a furniture factory where locals would learn crafts. Mr. Pennes made our visit really special. In the afternoon we headed to Tanglewood and saw John Williams conduct the Boston Pops. They performed the themes he wrote for Star Wars, Superman, and Harry Potter. A special cello elegy was played in memory of Senator Ted Kennedy. Then, James Taylor and Friends played the second half of the concert and it was fabulous. He kept coming back on stage and singing. It would have been perfect if the woman behind us didn't burst into song with JT every now and then. Luckily, I have perfected my Librarian Shoosing Look and would give her the evil eye everytime she was overcome with musical inspiration. Many thanks to the hundreds of students I have shushed over the past 3 years.